The watch world is a fascinating arena, brimming with innovation, tradition, and a constant dance between the old and the new. This week, we delve into a myriad of topics, from the intersection of art and horology to the evolving definition of 'microbrand'.
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery: Where Art Meets Horology
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery is a testament to the marriage of art and horology. Since its inception in Geneva in 2011, it has been a beacon for mechanical creators, offering a platform that transcends the traditional gallery world. The latest addition to this gallery is the Solar Orbiter, a masterpiece by British artist Martin Smith. Standing at 60cm tall, this kinetic watch winder is a marvel of craftsmanship, blending sculpture and horological accessory seamlessly. It's a refreshing reminder that the watch industry isn't just about new models; it's about storytelling and innovation.
What makes this particularly fascinating is the way it challenges our perceptions. The Solar Orbiter isn't just a watch winder; it's a piece of art that quietly rotates a watch while incorporating playful references to Smith's earlier works. This blurs the line between art and horology, inviting us to reconsider what a watch winder can be. In my opinion, it's a testament to the creativity and innovation that thrives outside the industry's biggest players.
Shinola's Brand Campaign: A New Story
Shinola, an American brand, has spent the past decade telling stories about Detroit, craftsmanship, and its flagship Runwell watch. However, surprisingly, it has never launched a dedicated brand campaign. With Set the Pace, the company's first-ever campaign, fronted by Nicholas Braun, Shinola is attempting to redefine itself in 2026. The campaign explores our complicated relationship with time, transforming an ordinary dinner into a race against time. This shift from focusing on specifications to the emotional connection with time is intriguing.
From my perspective, this campaign is an interesting move. Launching your first-ever brand campaign more than a decade after your flagship watch debuted isn't conventional, but memorable campaigns rarely come from playing it safe. Personally, I think it's a bold step towards defining what the brand stands for in the modern era.
The First New-Reference Rolex Daytona Rainbow
The first new-reference Rolex Daytona Rainbow has hit the auction block in Australia, marking a significant moment in the watch world. This yellow gold Daytona, with its signature rainbow sapphire bezel and gem-set dial, is a rare find. Its off-catalogue status means it remains reserved for Rolex's most valued clients, making it a highly sought-after piece. The auction result will provide the first real indication of how collectors value Rolex's latest Rainbow Daytona in the open market.
What makes this particularly interesting is the secondary market's response. At the time of writing, bidding has already reached A$395,000, with just a few days remaining before the hammer falls. This exceeds its estimate of more than A$500,000, suggesting a strong demand for this rare piece. In my opinion, it's a testament to the enduring appeal of Rolex and the Daytona model.
The Evolving Definition of 'Microbrand'
The term 'microbrand' has become as divisive as it is overused. Not that long ago, it felt like a badge of honour, representing small teams taking creative risks without the baggage of decades of heritage or sprawling corporate structures. Brands like Studio Underd0g, Baltic, and Christopher Ward have all embraced the idea of being small, independent, and community-driven. However, the market has changed, and the term has become too broad to be genuinely helpful.
What many people don't realize is that the term 'microbrand' has become associated with both genuinely thoughtful independents and those assembling catalogue parts with little to distinguish themselves beyond a logo and a colourful dial. This has left many successful smaller brands in an awkward position, as they now have international retailers, dedicated design teams, proprietary components, and increasingly sophisticated manufacturing, yet they're still grouped under the same umbrella as a Kickstarter project that launched a few months ago.
From my perspective, the answer isn't to abandon the word altogether. If collectors still hear 'microbrand' and think of passionate people making interesting watches outside the industry's biggest players, maybe the term isn't hurting brands at all. Maybe it's simply become too broad to be genuinely helpful. Either way, it's an interesting discussion, and I have a feeling it won't be the last time the watch industry finds itself debating what a microbrand actually is.
Wrist Shot of the Week: A Tasty Tonda
Corey, known as @enthuseddad, caught my attention with his shots of his gorgeous Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Minute Rattrapante. He's lustfully sporting it on a grey rubber strap, paired with a dial that somehow manages to make grey look sensational. It's a beautiful piece that showcases the brand's craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Time+Tide Shop Pick of the Week: Wren Diver One Obsidian
Wren's second collaboration with Ben's Watches builds on the success of last year's Diver One Magma. The Wren Diver One Obsidian wraps its molten orange fumé dial in a stealthy black DLC-coated case and bracelet, creating a striking contrast. It remains an enthusiast-focused everyday dive watch, measuring 41mm with 200 metres of water resistance and powered by the dependable Sellita SW200 automatic movement. It's a confident evolution of a distinctive entry in the independent dive watch scene.
Our Favorite Time+Tide Coverage of the Week
Which Omega Speedmaster Should I Buy?: The White Dial Moonwatch
The white-dial Omega Speedmaster Professional has quickly become one of the year's most talked-about releases. Andrew and Justin take an honest look at the watch, exploring its design, history, wearability, and why it might just be the Speedmaster to win over a new generation of collectors. It's a comprehensive review that delves into the watch's unique features and its potential to attract a broader audience.
Where the First Automatic Wristwatch Was Really Made
Russell travels to the Fortis manufacture in Grenchen to uncover the remarkable origins of the world's first serially produced automatic wristwatch, and why history hasn't given John Harwood the recognition he deserves. This piece is a fascinating exploration of the watch's history and the people behind it.
Vacheron Constantin Innovations: from Twin Beat to Overseas Ultra-Thin
Andrew, Justin, and Vacheron Constantin's Christian Selmoni explore five extraordinary timepieces from the brand's archives, revealing how two centuries of technical breakthroughs continue to shape one of watchmaking's oldest manufactures today. This piece is a testament to the brand's innovation and its enduring legacy.
